Fit the shoulders first: the shoulder seam should end where your shoulder ends, with no divots or overhang, because shoulders are the hardest part to alter. The jacket should button without pulling into an X, cover most of your seat, and show about a quarter to half an inch of shirt cuff. Trousers should sit comfortably at your waist with a slight or no break at the shoe. Sleeves, waist and hem are easy for a tailor to adjust.
A well-fitting suit looks better than an expensive one that doesn’t fit. Here is what to check.
Jacket
| Area | Good fit |
|---|---|
| Shoulders | Seam ends at your shoulder; no divots or overhang |
| Chest | Buttons without pulling into an X; lies flat |
| Collar | Sits against your shirt collar without a gap |
| Length | Covers most of your seat |
| Sleeves | Show 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff |
| Button stance | Top button (of two) at or just above the navel |
Trousers
- Waist: comfortable without a belt.
- Rise: sits where it’s comfortable; no pulling at the seat.
- Seat: smooth, no excess fabric or tightness.
- Leg: tapers cleanly without clinging.
- Break: none, slight or medium, by preference.
What tailors can easily change
- Sleeve length (unless working buttonholes)
- Jacket waist suppression
- Trouser waist and seat (within the seam allowance)
- Trouser hem and taper
What’s hard or impossible
- Shoulder width
- Jacket length (beyond small amounts)
- Chest that’s far too small
Buying tips
- Fit the shoulders first, then tailor the rest.
- Wear the shirt and shoes you’ll wear with the suit when trying it on.
- Choose a versatile first suit: navy or charcoal, wool, two-button.
Common questions
How do I know if a suit jacket fits in the shoulders?
The shoulder seam should end at the edge of your shoulder. Lean against a wall: if the shoulder pad hits the wall before your arm, it's too wide. Dents or rumples below the shoulder mean it's too narrow.
How long should suit sleeves be?
Long enough to show about a quarter to half an inch of shirt cuff with your arms at your sides.
What is trouser break?
The fold where the trouser hem meets the shoe. No break or a slight break looks modern; a medium or full break is more traditional.